4 Days in Kaohsiung — A Journey from Manila Through the Port City of Kaohsiung and Across Western Taiwan
Leaving behind a tiring schedule in Manila, Philippines, I boarded a flight bound for Kaohsiung, Taiwan. Looking at the route, entering through Kaohsiung and heading back to Korea via eastern and northern Taiwan felt like the most natural path. It was a plan I mapped out myself, but as the southern coastline of Taiwan and the harbor lined with countless cranes came into view through the window, my complex route calculations vanished, replaced by the excitement of exploring an unfamiliar city.
To ease my exhaustion from Manila, I decided to take it easy on my first night. I splurged a bit more than usual on my travel budget and booked the InterContinental Hotel. Taking a taxi from the airport and stepping into the brilliantly lit hotel lobby, I finally felt a sense of relaxation wash over me. The tall, modern facade and the soothing lighting seemed to gently dissolve my travel fatigue.
I was about to unpack and go to sleep when a subtle hunger drew me to the convenience store right next to the hotel. No matter what country I visit, exploring the local convenience stores is a small but sure delight. As I slowly browsed the shelves, a pleasant surprise caught my eye: roasted sweet potatoes resting on warm stones. I had never paid much attention to convenience store sweet potatoes in Korea, but seeing them piping hot in a corner of a convenience store in this unfamiliar island nation made me unexpectedly emotional. Taking a bite of the sweet potato, which filled the air with a gentle, sweet aroma, the comforting warmth and familiar taste of home filled my mouth. I couldn't help but smile at myself, feeling homesick over a simple piece of roasted sweet potato in a place across the sea where I didn't even speak the language.
Trams Gliding Over Green Lawns and Alleyways Filled with Sea Breezes
Out of all the cities in Taiwan, I particularly love the peaceful atmosphere unique to Kaohsiung. This is my second visit, and there is a specific scene that left a deep impression on me during my first trip. It is the sight of the Light Rail Transit (LRT) gliding smoothly over lush green lawns instead of cold steel tracks. With no tall fences or imposing safety barriers to block people, the sight of the tram sliding innocently onto the neatly manicured grass disarms me every time. Standing at a stop where the wind brushes over the lawn, with the distant 85 Sky Tower standing like a folding screen, I realized once again that I had returned to Kaohsiung while waiting for the next tram.
At lunchtime, I wandered through the alleys without a destination and stopped by a tiny local restaurant nearby. It was a neighborhood spot without even a flashy sign. Thinking that egg fried rice is always the best way to gauge a Chinese restaurant's skill, I ordered fried rice along with stir-fried cabbage and a light vegetable soup. Quickly tossed over high heat, each grain of rice glistened, carrying a rich, smoky flavor. Indeed, the mastery of everyday cooking in its homeland cannot be faked.
After filling my stomach, I headed toward the harbor and boarded a ferry. A short boat ride from Kaohsiung Harbor takes you to Cijin Island, a long, narrow strip of land. Enjoying the brief journey on a colorful ferry adorned with cute characters, a cool sea breeze brushed against my cheeks.
Most tourists who land on Cijin Island simply take a quick look around the market near the ferry terminal or the beach promenade before heading back. However, looking closely at Google Maps, I noticed another small ferry terminal on the eastern edge of the island. Guided only by the map, I walked into the inner alleys of the island where tourists rarely tread. Everyday scenes unfolded, with old pharmacy signs, election posters pasted on walls, and faded temple signs blending together. Rather than standardized tourist attractions, alleys like these, containing raw, authentic life, double the traveler's inspiration.
The eastern pier, which I reached after a long walk, was quiet to the point of desolation. It was a tiny harbor consisting only of a concrete ramp leading into the sea and a yellow railing. For over 30 minutes, neither a boat nor even a passerby was in sight, and a sudden wave of anxiety washed over me. Just then, a local resident passing by on a scooter caught my eye. Bowing my head, I asked, "Does the boat really come here?" He nodded indifferently and told me it would arrive if I waited a little. Thus began a battle of belief within myself. Enduring the wait while looking out at the quiet sea, a small boat miraculously approached, cutting through the water in the distance. It was a small victory earned by holding onto faith.
Returning to the mainland and walking through the city, the 85 Sky Tower, the symbol of Kaohsiung, loomed grandly before my eyes. Looking at its unique structure with a hollow center and its sculptural beauty soaring toward the sky, it evokes the image of a rocket ready to launch into space at any moment. The contrast of the modern, ultra-tall skyscraper rising above the low-rise, red-brick buildings of the old town creates Kaohsiung's unique sense of depth.
Rich Beef Noodles and the Vibrant Night Market
If you come to Taiwan, having a proper bowl of beef noodles is a culinary ritual you cannot skip. For lunch on the third day, I went looking for dry beef noodles topped with generous portions of thick beef. Thickly sliced beef shank filled the bowl over chewy noodles, and finely chopped green onions on top added a fresh touch. I mixed the savory, deeply flavorful sauce thoroughly into the noodles and took a bite with a piece of meat, letting the rich juices burst in my mouth. Paired with a cold can of cola, it was a perfect, cozy meal that left nothing to be desired.
Taiwan's night markets, visited after sunset, are always bursting with energy. While some night markets in other countries can feel a bit perfunctory or merely serve pre-packaged food, Taiwan's night markets feel like genuine hubs of local life. The vendors never cook carelessly; they prepare each ingredient with care, seasoning and grilling them meticulously over charcoal. The pride of a young man grilling a whole squid over charcoal—thickly scored and brushed with a special red sauce—was clear to see. The bustling voices of the vendors and the delicious aromas mingling with the smoke are the true highlights that complete a night in Kaohsiung.
Leaving the Beloved Port City Behind from a High-Speed Train Window
My 4 days and 3 nights in Kaohsiung were a blend of comfort and unexpected small adventures. On the afternoon of the 27th, I boarded the Taiwan High Speed Rail (THSR) at Zuoying Station to head toward Taichung and Taipei. Taiwan's rail network is exceptionally sophisticated and well-organized, making travel between cities highly comfortable. Sitting in a plush cabin seat, looking at the next destination displayed on the electronic sign, I whispered my goodbyes to the port city of Kaohsiung as it faded away outside the window.
