Three Days in Ubud: Focusing on the Wind, the Forest, and Myself

The morning in Bali was much more pleasant and cooler than I had expected. Before the morning sun fully rose, I headed out to the Campuhan Ridge Walk—Ubud's signature trekking trail—to loosen up my stiff body. I walked slowly along the neatly paved stone block path, which was framed by a dense bamboo forest and lush, green trees. Because it was still early, the breeze was incredibly refreshing, and the soothing texture of the stone path beneath my feet lent a pleasant rhythm to the walk itself.

As I continued along the ridge, the view opened up wide, revealing Ubud's iconic terraced rice fields in all their glory. Right on cue, the fields were dense with rice ripening to a golden hue, creating a beautiful contrast with the green palm trees. Looking at the red-tiled village homes and towering palm trees scattered among the rice paddies, I couldn't help but feel that my timing was perfect. Gazing out at this natural landscape that stretched to the horizon without a single tall building, the noisy thoughts in my mind vanished like magic.

The fields of Ubud reflect a long history of coexistence between humans and nature through 'Subak,' the traditional water management system. Walking through the morning air, breathing in the scent of earth and grass rising from the paths between the paddies, felt like the simplest yet deepest luxury a traveler could experience in this mountain town.

Having gone without Korean food for several days since arriving in Indonesia, I found myself craving something spicy and savory by lunchtime. This craving led me to 'Namsan,' a Korean restaurant in downtown Ubud. Without hesitation, I ordered the braised back ribs with kimchi (Deunggalbi Kimchijjim) from the menu. Shortly after, the thoroughly cooked kimchi and thick back ribs arrived on a hot iron plate, sending up clouds of savory steam.

I could immediately tell that great care had gone into wrapping each back rib in individual sheets of kimchi and simmering them for a long time. It was a deep, rich broth that could only be achieved by hand-making the precious kimchi right here in a foreign land. While Korean restaurants in other Southeast Asian resorts can be prohibitively expensive, the Korean restaurants in Bali offered reasonable prices and exceptional dedication to their food. Finishing a whole bowl of rice alongside seasoned fish cakes and radish salad infused with a hint of sesame oil finally filled me with a comforting warmth.

With my stomach full, I stepped out of the restaurant and wondered where to go next before deciding on the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, which was within walking distance. Having seen monkeys often on other trips to Southeast Asia, I didn't have very high expectations at first. However, the moment I passed the sign and stepped into the forest entrance, the atmosphere transformed completely.

Passing through a stone tunnel whose walls were elaborately carved with mythical creatures from ancient legends, a lush primeval forest opened up before me as if I had entered another world. Beneath the shade of tall tropical trees, countless wild monkeys roamed freely throughout the forest. I couldn't help but smile at the expression of one monkey who lay casually resting its chin on a path railing, looking as if it were observing the passing travelers.

I stopped in my tracks when I spotted a mother monkey holding her tiny, fragile baby close to her chest atop a moss-covered stone structure. It was my first time seeing a monkey holding a baby on this trip, which made the moment feel even more special. This secret forest, from which I hadn't expected much, ended up bringing me immense wonder and joy far beyond my expectations.

As the darkness deepened over Ubud, instead of my usual soda, I decided to act a bit more grown-up and ordered a cold beer. A green bottle of Indonesia's iconic Bintang beer was placed on the table along with a glass.

Since I had an ATV tour scheduled early the next morning, I avoided street food that might upset my stomach and chose a clean restaurant with a wonderfully Indonesian atmosphere. Pairing a crisp, cold beer with freshly fried mie goreng topped with a fried egg and grilled satay made the Ubud night breeze feel even sweeter.

The next morning, I took on the Kuber ATV experience, often called the pinnacle of Ubud activities. Putting on a helmet and climbing onto the four-wheel quad bike, I felt the heavy vibration of the engine run through my entire body. As I hit the throttle on the guide's signal, the rugged jungle terrain loomed ahead.

The most thrilling moment was entering a dark cave after navigating a narrow canyon with sheer cliffs on both sides. Inside the pitch-black tunnel, the ATV ahead of me suddenly stalled, creating an unexpected obstacle. Keeping my cool, I revved my engine and pushed the front vehicle's rear bumper, driving us both out of the cave. The sense of triumph and excitement was indescribable.

Upon exiting the cave, we were greeted by a waterfall cascading powerfully deep within the forest. Getting drenched by the spray, I charged right through the water at the base of the falls. Although I was splattered with mud and water, the sense of liberation as I gripped the handlebars and rode forward was incredibly intense.

The ATV journey ended with a thrilling splash through the final water course, sending spray everywhere. Though I was covered from head to toe in mud and water, my spirit felt completely recharged with refreshing energy.

After spending the morning doing what felt like a full-body workout, a sudden wave of hunger washed over me. Deciding how to satisfy my appetite, I resolved to try eating samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly) alone for the first time in my life. It was something I had never dared to try back in Korea, worrying too much about what others would think. I decided to go all out and even added fragrant water dropwort (minari) to the grill.

I piled thick slices of pork belly, fresh water dropwort, bean sprouts, and kimchi onto the heated cauldron-lid grill. The sizzling sound of the meat cooking and the sharp aroma of the water dropwort instantly stimulated my appetite. The moment I placed a piece of golden-brown pork belly topped with water dropwort into my mouth, the awkwardness of dining alone melted away. When I actually did it, it was no big deal. In that Ubud grill house, I gained the simple yet precious realization that people don't actually focus on me as much as I think. I returned home confident that I could easily enjoy samgyeopsal alone in Korea anytime.

Days in Ubud where I escaped the gaze of others and came face-to-face with my true self.

My three days in Ubud were filled with a diverse spectrum of experiences, from lazy relaxation and forest trekking to rugged jungle adventures and the personal milestone of dining alone. Amidst the silence of the forest and the thrill of the jungle, I finally discovered a version of myself that was entirely free from the gaze of others.