Under the Shadow of Mount Agung: Heartfelt Flavors and Slow Seas in Amed, Bali

As soon as I landed at the airport, I hailed a Grab taxi to travel to my destination, Amed. The assigned vehicle was an electric vehicle with a smooth ride. It is a major journey of about three and a half hours by car from the airport to Amed, located on the eastern tip of Bali. Before departing, the driver spoke to me gently: "Since Amed is a rural area, fast-charging facilities for electric vehicles might be scarce. It would be wise to charge up sufficiently on our way."

In the end, we had to stop by a charging station and wait for about 40 minutes. Although I spent the time chatting about this and that with the driver while the car charged, I gained the valuable realization that one should not hail an electric vehicle when making long-distance trips to remote regions. Though the taxi fare of 1.5 million IDR was more expensive than my plane ticket, I slowly entered into serenity while gazing at the eastern Bali landscapes unfolding outside the window.

After a long drive of over three hours, I finally arrived at my accommodation in Amed. In the alleys where darkness had settled deeply, wooden signs guiding the way to Amed's homestays and inns stood charmingly. Lush, green rice paddies stretched out wide around the accommodation, giving off a characteristically warm, rural scent.

The single reason I chose this hotel was that the massive silhouette of Mount Agung could be seen directly beyond the room window. While it was not an outstanding place in terms of facilities or cost-effectiveness, the easygoing kindness and earnest, helpful attitude of the front desk staff warmed my heart. As I sat on a wooden chair on the terrace, the black silhouette of Mount Agung, towering under the dim night sky, felt overwhelmingly magnificent.

I had not been able to satisfy my hunger during the trip to Amed, so I was quite hungry. Searching through the darkness to find a local corner store, what I discovered was none other than Korean Carbonara Buldak Bokkeummyeon (hot chicken flavor ramen). Since there were no other types of ramen, I had no choice, but the stimulating spiciness of Korean food tasted after a long while instantly melted away the fatigue of the arduous journey.

After filling my stomach, I stepped out onto the terrace again and looked up at the night sky. In Amed's night sky, where artificial lights are scarce, countless stars were embedded like jewels. Adjusting my breathing under the gentle starlight, I quietly brought the long day to a close.

The next morning, I went for a walk on the beach of Amed. On the beach, which was neither flashy nor overdeveloped, the livelihood of local residents was naturally integrated. The morning sun pouring over the "I LOVE AMED" structure painted the gently rippling surface of the sea in gold.

Amed is famous as a sanctuary for freediving. Indeed, one of my primary goals for this journey was freediving. Instead of teaching in a perfunctory manner, the local dive shop instructed me in theory and breathing techniques with great passion and systematic care. After finishing the lesson, we went straight out to the front sea to continue practical training. The silence felt as I descended quietly into the deep ocean provided a thrill of complete immersion.

When walking around the village after coming out of the water, Mount Agung—the symbol of Amed—and the green rice fields form a perfect harmony. Mount Agung, wearing clouds like a hat, reliably supported the background, while the sight of rice growing vibrantly in front of it calmed my mind just by looking at it.

At the port of Amed, which I visited early in the morning, traditional wooden boats called jukung were floating on the calm ripples. Instead of the flashiness of a bustling tourist destination, it was a sea where the sunlight gently spreading over the horizon and the daily lives of fishermen blended tenderly.

I also visited a massage shop to relieve the tension in my body. A fresh breeze passed through the main entrance of the shop, and it featured a garden with a cozy view of palm trees and rice fields, allowing for perfect relaxation.

One of the most surprising aspects of traveling in Amed was the deep care put into the food. It made me completely forget about global fast-food franchises, as every place I went presented clean and carefully prepared dishes. A handmade burger, generously packed with a thick meat patty and fresh vegetables, arrived with a delightfully hearty visual, complete with a knife pierced through the top of the bun.

One day, craving a spicy, warm broth, I visited a Japanese restaurant. The tantanmen I ordered here was served with soft-boiled egg, minced meat, and green onions beautifully arranged as toppings on a rich, red broth. It perfectly satisfied the spicy and deep broth flavor that I, as a Korean, had been missing. The gyoza ordered alongside were also not just casually pan-fried; they were served with the entire bottom surface beautifully grilled to a golden, crispy lattice pattern.

Unable to forget that taste, I returned to the same restaurant the next evening. This time, I ordered tonkotsu ramen with a smooth and rich pork bone broth. Taking a sip of the soup, which was generously topped with wood ear mushrooms, bok choy, and savory chashu, a deep sense of satisfaction rushed over me once again.

For breakfast or lunch, I frequently sought out healthy, wholesome meals. A smoothie bowl in a yellow dish, neatly topped with banana slices, chia seeds, sunflower seeds, and granola, boasted a cool yet nutty flavor. The tuna poke bowl enjoyed on another day at a cafe also captured both my sight and taste buds with its beautiful harmony of colors, featuring cubed tuna, avocado, carrots, edamame, and red cabbage.

While eating the poke bowl, I opened my laptop on a cafe table where the wireless internet worked smoothly. This very moment—continuing my work with delicious food by my side while feeling the daily life outside the window—was the digital nomad lifestyle itself that I had dreamed of for a long time.

On one day, craving spaghetti, I enjoyed a pasta loaded with seafood. The tomato seafood spaghetti, packed with fresh clams and shrimp, had an outstanding savory depth. The combination of dense chocolate brownie, vanilla ice cream, and matcha latte enjoyed as dessert after the meal provided a perfect finish.

Charming and lovely cafes were hidden in every alley of Amed. Just sitting in a pretty cafe and drinking a cup of rich chocolate smoothie provided a sense of ease. The authentic spaghetti bolognese ordered for my next meal, served with garlic bread alongside a sauce packed with minced meat, became a hearty meal.

My final breakfast in Amed was a croissant sandwich with distinct, flaky layers. Soft scrambled eggs and plenty of fresh smoked salmon were nestled between the crispy croissant, offering a rich texture. The dishes encountered at every meal were proof of how genuinely serious the people here are about even a single plate of food.

As dusk fell, Amed's streets were painted with the colors of the twilight glow alongside charming storefront lights. The calmly settled night streets were filled with coziness instead of noise, creating the perfect atmosphere to focus entirely on oneself and look back on the day.

Amed's nights are quiet, offering the perfect atmosphere to focus entirely on oneself.

The journey across Java to Amed at the eastern end of Bali was an excellent choice at every single moment. Even the unexpected wait for charging during the long-distance travel might have been a preparation process for accepting the beauty of slowness offered by this unhurried rural village. Diving into the sea under the guard of the towering Mount Agung, and savoring heartfelt food every day to blur the boundary between daily routine and relaxation. The complete serenity and warm tables enjoyed in Amed will remain as deep nourishment in my heart for a long time.