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A Seogwipo Journey with My Family Visiting My Home in Jeju

2021.8.28 – 2022.6.12

Living and settling down in Jeju, welcome guests from the mainland suddenly visit from time to time. This time, my aunt, uncle, and younger sibling unpacked their bags here in Jeju. It felt incredibly heartwarming since my family came to visit the neighborhood that is my everyday home, even though it is an exciting travel destination for others. Guiding their light footsteps along the familiar scent of the sea and stone-wall paths, I found myself looking at the island I love through the eyes of a traveler once again.

The first place I headed with my family was Hamdeok, famous for its emerald beach. The water is shallow and the sand is fine, offering a heartwarming view of little children splashing around in tubes whenever you visit. Walking along the beach trail together while listening to the gentle sound of the rolling waves made all my built-up fatigue wash clean away.

The clear, cozy Hamdeok Beach trail and the blue ocean view

Beyond the wide-open waters of Hamdeok, a clear sky adorned with puffy clouds unfolded beautifully. The ocean water was so transparent that the black basalt rocks could be seen right through the shallow water near the shore. My family gasped in admiration repeatedly, and I felt my shoulders rise with a sense of pride, thinking to myself, 'Indeed, the sea in my neighborhood is the absolute best.'

A view of Hamdeok Beach showcasing its transparent depth and emerald water

Small Laughs at the Folk Village and a Delicious Night in Seogwipo

A few days later, we set off to look around Pyoseon Folk Village, where the traditional lifestyle of old Jeju is preserved. Walking along the stone walls, I spotted a catchy note among the bundles of wishing papers that made me burst out laughing. Someone had earnestly written, "First prize in yesterday's lottery, and if first is too hard, please give me at least second prize." I couldn't help but laugh at this desperate, heartfelt sincerity and took a picture. In the fenced enclosure right next to it, unique chickens with glossy black feathers and proud combs were strolling together, adding to the fun.

A witty lottery wish paper hanging on the stone wall of the folk village
Unique silkie chickens inside the enclosure at the folk village

In the evening, we headed to Jaridom Raw Fish Restaurant for some delicious sashimi. Fresh, gleaming mackerel sashimi was neatly sliced and served on a full plate. Actually, my uncle has been famous for being an extraordinary fishing enthusiast since he was very young, but the twist is that he doesn't really enjoy eating raw fish himself. So we also ordered a golden, savory grilled fish for him. Of course, since I absolutely love grilled fish, I ended up stealing and eating more than half of my uncle's portion.

A neatly sliced plate of reddish fresh mackerel sashimi
A large, crispy, and beautifully grilled fish

After filling our stomachs, we made our way to the night market festival near Seogwipo Olle Market. We took a spot amidst the bustling night street atmosphere, and my aunt tilted a beer glass toward us, saying, "I can't drink all of this by myself, so you two share it." However, seeing the glass fill up with nothing but foam, my sibling and I burst into laughter as we were reminded of the famous old 'IU beer pouring' meme.

The moment of toasting with beer glasses filled to the brim with foam

After looking around the night market, we headed to 'Jeju Beer Fountain,' a famous Seogwipo craft beer spot I had always wanted to visit. The inside of the pub was filled with a very hip atmosphere, thanks to the soft lighting and uniquely stylish interior. The counter, decorated with coffee bean and malt samples alongside rainbow-colored glasses, was very aesthetic, and there were so many cute designer goods that I bought a few of my favorites. Although I am an alcohol lightweight who gets tipsy after just one glass of beer, I couldn't possibly pass by this charming bottle packaging.

An artistic display of beer glasses and ingredients inside Jeju Beer Fountain
Holding a bottled craft beer to-go in front of Jeju Beer Fountain

The Blue Scenic Wonders of Soesokkak and a Leisurely Seogwipo Cafe Tour

On our morning walk the next day, we turned our steps toward Soesokkak. I noticed a large sign warning 'Beware of Snakes' posted on a tree trunk at the entrance of the trail. Maybe because I was born in the Year of the Snake, I chuckled to myself, thinking, 'How did they know I was a snake sign and prepare this just for me?' as I walked. The birds chirping through the misty leaves and the cool breeze refreshed my morning spirits beautifully.

A clear snake warning sign posted on a tree at the Soesokkak trail entrance

Since my aunt and uncle wanted to rest at the accommodation, I went to the famous 'Yudong Coffee' with my sibling to enjoy some relaxed time for just the two of us after a long while. My expectations were high because the place boasts brilliant award-winning baristas. Enjoying the crispy croffle and sweet-bitter signature drinks while catching up on long-overdue conversations with my sibling brought such a peaceful atmosphere.

Cool signature drinks and a delicious-looking croffle at Yudong Coffee

In the afternoon, the family gathered together again to go up and enjoy the core view of Soesokkak. It is definitely one of my top 200 favorite spots in Jeju. Where the fresh water meets the sea, lush pine trees cast shadows over the emerald valley, and seeing people leisurely rowing traditional wooden boats in between made my heart feel completely at ease.

The deep, blue water of Soesokkak surrounded by cliffs and lush forests
People enjoying nature while riding small wooden boats on Soesokkak

After our walk, we moved to Terarosa Jeju, which stands tall inside a nearby tangerine tree orchard. The cafe was charming with its Jeju basalt stone walls, large floor-to-ceiling windows, and cozy brick building layout. Having five years of veteran experience working part-time at cafes in the past, I often find myself closely observing the latte art, and enjoying the warm sunshine on the outdoor terrace with a beautifully crafted heart latte was as cozy as could be.

The entrance sign of Terarosa Seogwipo surrounded by tangerine trees and stone walls
A cup of smooth cafe latte with a heart-shaped latte art design

At dusk, we visited Seogwipo Olle Market once again to get some raw fish to eat back at our accommodation. While browsing the fish market stalls decorated with colorful price tags on assorted sashimi plates, I spotted a group of fresh spoon worms in an adjacent water tank. I stood mesmerized for a moment, looking at their unique appearance as they wriggled in the water next to a plastic bottle, lost in funny imaginations.

A neat display of packaged raw fish inside Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market
Wriggling spoon worms packed inside a plastic container in a water tank

The Deep Flavors of a Blue Ribbon Restaurant and the Grandeur of Oedolgae and Jusangjeolli

For breakfast on our last day in Jeju, we decided on a braised fish restaurant that I had stumbled upon in the past and fallen in love with. The rows of Blue Ribbon stickers pasted on the glass door year after year proved the incredible mastery of this place. The seasoning was spicy and clean without being overly stimulating or salty, so even my uncle, who is notoriously a very picky eater, emptied a whole bowl of rice, saying, "This braised fish is truly delicious."

Blue Ribbon certification stickers packed by year on the restaurant's glass door
Rich, spicy braised hairtail and fish with large chunks of potato and radish

After filling our stomachs, we set off for a stroll toward the Oedolgae and Hwangwooji Coast trails. The landscape of rocky islands along the Seogwipo coast, spreading out beneath gentle dark clouds, was remarkably diverse. At Hwangwooji Seonnyeotang, which forms a natural rock pool, the place was already packed with people in swimsuits enjoying diving and splashing around. I had a huge urge to jump in and swim, but I had to settle my disappointment by watching them with envious eyes.

An open view of the rugged, rocky sea along the Seogwipo Oedolgae coast
Vacationers enjoying swimming at Hwangwooji Coast, a natural rock pool

The Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff we reached next was, as always, the embodiment of natural wonder itself. Formed long ago when hot lava cooled as it met the sea, the polygonal, column-shaped vertical cliffs rose smoothly and geometrically. The sound of rough white waves crashing against the exquisite scenery, which looked so precise it seemed almost hand-carved, cleared my mind completely.

The Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff showing a harmonious display of geometric hexagonal stone pillars
A marvelous spectacle of deep blue ocean pools and vertical cliff pillars

The very last place we visited right before heading to the airport was the 'One and Only' cafe located beneath Sanbangsan Mountain. We quietly wrapped up our journey while drinking Americanos and eating an adorable chocolate cake shaped exactly like the majestic Sanbangsan cliff. Although it was a bit pricey, we finished on a high note thanks to the cute bread shape and the beautiful atmosphere of the view outside the window. Having sent my family off, looking through the photos one by one makes the Jeju neighborhood where I live feel newly precious and deeply missed.

A signature chocolate dessert shaped like Sanbangsan Mountain with One and Only coffee
Travel route map
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